From James McMahon, of Bridgehamptonโs Salty Sessions:
If thereโs one book Iโd recommend, itโs Barbarian Days. Itโs a great bookโ really well written. It's not just about surfing moves or techniques.
It's about William Finnegan, a writer, a journalist from the East End โMontauk area โ who ends up going to California, then his parents move to Hawaii and he gets the surf bug.
Itโs a true story, mostly in the 70s. He ends up founding some of the proper waves in Fiji. Itโs his travels around the world back in the day and itโs beautifully written.
If you have any connection to the ocean or off-the-beaten-path travel, youโll get it. Itโs more of a life journey than just a book on surfing. Itโs one of those you can eat up in a few days. Itโs definitely a good travel or beach read.
๐ Barbarian Days
๐ Salty Sessions
1251 Ocean Rd, Bridgehampton, NY 11932, USA
For over a decade, Salty Sessions has held the only license for Ocean Road's breaks in Bridgehampton.
Founder James McMahon staffs the school with lifeguard-certified pro surfers who speak three languages and teach students from ages 3 to 75+.
Small group lessons, sunrise privates, and summer camps draw families from across the East End.
The reason is simple: safe, fun instruction that adapts to every student's needs.
Book Cover - Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan; published by Penguin Books