How Jesse, co-owner of Sen restaurant in Sag Harbor, does Tokyo:

A Must in Tokyo

Tokyo has no shortage of unforgettable food experiences, but Omoide Yokocho (aka Memory Lane) in Shinjuku is a must.

Along the train tracks behind Shinjuku Station, this tiny restaurant row is an alleyway of smoky grills, ice-cold beer, and a kind of intimacy you don’t find anywhere else.

Each restaurant is a four-to-six seat sliver of a space – tiny but packed with some of the best food you’ll eat in Tokyo. You don’t need to know the names of these places. You just follow your nose, pick a stool, and enjoy.

A Must: The Oyster Bar & the Secret Snake Sake 💯

There’s only one oyster bar in all of Memory Lane – you’ll know it when you see it. A stainless steel counter piled with fresh oysters from all over Japan. They’ll have a map showing where each oyster is from, so you can pick what you want.

And the locals ask for the snake sake.

Snake sake (aka snake juice) is forbidden in the U.S. – which, of course, makes it even more intriguing. A snake is drowned in alcohol, releasing its venom into the sake. And you have a drink that induces partial paralysis – just enough for that perfect buzz.

These days, they don’t just leave it out in the open – too many tourists snapping photos. Instead, if you know, you know. You ask, they go up into the attic, reach into a hidden compartment, and bring it down. It’s discreet, old-school, and a little bit thrilling.

Add the Real Deal Kumamoto Oysters 💯

If you’re going all in, pair the snake sake with Kumamoto oysters. My family is from Kumamoto, and I grew up hearing stories of my father running down to the water and pulling oysters straight from the rocks. Now, they grow Kumamotos in Washington too, but nothing compares to the real thing.

Inside Tip 📌

Memory Lane is all about discovery. Wander, follow your instincts, and ask for the things that aren’t on the menu. That’s where the real Tokyo magic happens.

About Jesse

This card is by Jesse Matsuoka, a Hamptons resident of over 25 years. A sake sommelier and co-owner of Sen, a legendary Japenese restaurant in Sag Harbor. Born in Manhattan, grew up in Tokyo, Hawaii and Sag Harbor, and married to a third generation Montauker.

Images

Lead-in Image - Photo by Yoav Aziz on Unsplash; Back of Card Image - Photo by Kentin, July 2005, Wikipedia