From James McMahon, of Bridgehampton’s Salty Sessions:
The ultimate wave? That's subjective. Personally, I like waves that break close to shore. The closer in they break, the heavier they get. Far-out waves are more mellow and bubbly. I look for that borderline shore break that's still surfable — intense, heavy.
Nazaré in Portugal is one of my favorite waves in the world. It's a wave that has no limits. You’ve seen the international photos—it’s the spot for some of the biggest waves ever ridden.
There’s a giant deep-water canyon offshore you’d never see if you didn't know it was there. It channels swell energy and creates this insane wedge effect where two waves slam into each other, forming giant triangular peaks — double the size of the incoming swell. It’s what makes Nazaré unlike anywhere else.
I’ve surfed Nazaré a lot, but only at 10 to 12 feet and below. Even at that size, it's intense — the face of the wave can be 20 feet. Those days are for paddling in.
When it’s over 30 feet, that’s a different sport. It becomes a big-wave event with jet skis, spotters on the cliffs, a whole safety team.
It’s not for me — I don’t have that setup, and I’m not a big-wave surfer.
It’s not a long wave. Through the barrel, maybe 10 seconds. But it’s as intense as you want.
Up at the top of town there are six or seven beautiful restaurants all lined up. Any of them are great — fresh fish, real food, excellent wine, classic Europe.
That whole stretch along the bottom near the beach is cool too, with its own local vibe.
If you're going to surf Nazaré, know your limits. Go small, get to know it. The place has a reputation for a reason. Respect it, and it’ll give you the ride of your life.
JW58+62 Nazaré, Portugal
Nazare, Portugal, January 30, 2025 - Photo by Jarno Colijn on Unsplash
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