From Francesca Buffo, founder of Lady Holiday:

The Telltale Signs of Quality

I was drawn to jewelry construction from a young age. You can always tell the quality of a piece from the back of it. Examining how they designed a bracelet, for instance, reveals the intricacy and craftsmanship. The construction techniques vary significantly across decades, with each era having its own distinctive approach.

The Materials Evolution

In the 1920s, they used rhodium plate for costume jewelry, which almost looked like platinum. When electroplated with gold, these pieces achieved remarkable quality. Comparing pieces from the 20s to today's jewelry shows how much better the craftsmanship was back then. The quality difference is immediately apparent to the trained eye.

Stone Settings Through Time

The 20s featured beautiful "paste" settings that made stones resemble mine-cut or rose-cut diamonds. These pieces rarely used prong settings, which became more common in the 40s through 70s and continue today. Instead, they set stones directly into the metal, similar to today's pavé setting technique, creating a seamless, elegant appearance.

Light and Sparkle Factors

Some vintage pieces feature "foil back" stones, which create a different kind of shimmer than "open back" designs. Foil backing gives stones a unique iridescence and luminous quality that distinguishes them from modern pieces. The way light interacts with these different settings creates distinctive visual effects.

Understanding Materials

Vintage costume jewelry typically features glass, crystal, or acrylic stones rather than precious or semi-precious gems. Don't dismiss acrylic pieces - Lucite is exceptionally high quality, and prestigious designers like Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, and Coco Chanel all created stunning acrylic jewelry. Material choice doesn't necessarily indicate lower quality, just different design approaches of the era.

Inside Tip 📌

When evaluating vintage jewelry, assess the weight first - good quality pieces typically have substantial heft, though some lighter pieces can still be beautiful. Examine the color of the metal and clarity of stones - avoid cloudy stones with visible fractures. Ensure settings are secure, with no prongs pulling away from stones or loose elements.

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🌐 Lady Holiday

About

I’m Francesca Buffo, founder of Lady Holiday. Before starting this passion project, I spent years working for brands like Ralph Lauren, Repetto, Cath Kidston, and Stubbs & Wootton — places that taught me the value of storytelling, heritage, and lasting style. Lady Holiday is my way of sharing that love through carefully sourced vintage jewelry, each piece with its own little sparkle and story.

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