From Rory, Kidd Squid Brewing Co, Sag Harbor, NY:
After we’ve worked our way through the Beer Mile, we’ll usually head over to Bar Tozino on Maltby Ropewalk for dinner.
It’s straightforward Spanish tapas — small plates done really well. The Basque cider is worth ordering. (You don’t come across it much back home.)
Once there, I’ll usually get the Iberico ham — there are four, five different cuts, and different types of pigs, too. The tortilla’s really good. Plus they’ve got a thoughtful wine list too.
I don’t know if it’s a regulatory thing, but Basque cider just hasn’t made it here. It’s wild fermented, meaning they don’t add commercial yeast — the yeast is just in the air. That gives it this funky, cloudy, dry profile that I really love. It’s totally different from the sweet, sugary ciders you usually see in the US or even most of England.
The wild ferment makes it unpredictable, too, which is part of the fun. You don’t know exactly what you’re going to get. Different strains of wild yeast leave different flavors. One of them — Brettanomyces — has this funky, leathery note a lot of people describe as shoe leather. I kind of like that.
There’s something about the spontaneity and the connection to nature that makes it special. That’s how they’ve been making cider in the Basque region for 800 years.
Definitely try the Basque cider, and different cuts of jamon. If cider’s not your thing, you can switch to wine. They do have a great wine list, too.
51 Ropewalk, London SE1 3PA, UK
@MaltbyStMarket & @BarTozino / Instagram